shelidonNovember 4, 2024Leave a Comment

After wrapping up a glorious Autodesk University in San Diego, I took a week off, and it was my now traditional week of vacation with my sommelier friend (see Madeira for reference). It’s our sixth long vacation together, and 4 out of six destinations were on the African continent. There are a few reasons for that, including my friend’s distrust of time zones that aren’t ours. Anyway, after a splendid trip in Egypt, this year we picked South Africa, mostly because of the wine, and I’m definitely not opposed to that, but wineries and wine tours aren’t the whole story down there, as I’m sure you know.

Since I’m very busy these days, I’ll split these notes into three parts:

1. people and history;
2. nature and wildlife;
3. food and wine.

The first and the last will have overlaps, obviously, but that’s the best way I can manage right now.

1. People and History

South Africa is undoubtedly one of the most important countries in the world when it comes to equality and civil rights. The Country’s background, though, is particular when it comes to Africa.

The earliest known inhabitants of what is now South Africa were the Khoisan peoples, in fact, consisting of the San, who were hunter-gatherers and the Khoikhoi, who were herders. Around 2000 years ago, Bantu-speaking peoples migrated in from the north and settled in many areas, integrating with the Khoisan people and leading to the emergence of new ethnic identities. The modern black population of South Africa largely descends from these Bantu-speaking groups, which include major ethnic groups such as the Zulu, Xhosa, Ndebele, and Sotho. Things got complicated when the Dutch established their trading post at the Cape of Good Hope in 1652, behaving towards the indigenous groups as the Dutch used to do and either displacing or killing many Khoisan people. When the European settlers decided a trading post wasn’t enough and colonized the inland, they had no desire to work the land themselves, as some Europeans were. There weren’t enough local people to oppress, so they decided to import them: people in slavery were brought in through the same routes that were deporting them to the New Continent.

This means that the black population is fundamentally a mix of descendants from local ethnicities and from slaves brought in from the Benin Blight area, giving society some characteristics you might find in the United States more than in Africa itself, as odd as it might sound.

On top of that, the appalling set of rules we know as apartheid was finally neutralized in the 1990s, which is the day before yesterday. The country’s social advancement was very fast after Nelson Mandela’s release from prison in 1990: South Africa’s Constitution, adopted in 1996, enshrines a Bill of Rights against not only racial discrimination but firmly stands against discrimination based on gender, sexual orientation, and any other characteristic people might want to use as an excuse, some of which we’re still struggling to see explicitly mentioned in our legislation (see here, for instance, and remember it didn’t pass). South Africa was the first African country to legalize same-sex marriage in 2006.

Discrimination, though, is far from being over. The legacy of apartheid has increased the country’s awareness of civil rights on one side, but carries consequences that are difficult to tackle and, even when they are, might spur controversies such as the Restitution and Redistribution Laws aiming at both compensating individuals or communities who were forcibly removed from their land due to apartheid laws, and at transfer land from white owners to black South Africans, with a target set to redistribute 30% of white-owned agricultural land by 2014. Progress has been slow, as we’ll see in a jiffy.

Migrations also aren’t a thing of the past, with regional migrants from the Southern African Development Community and particularly Zimbabweans (45%), Basotho from Lesotho, and Mozambicans fleeing both environmental disasters and the armed conflicts between the Mashababos, an armed group linked to Islamic State, and joint local forces. For similar reasons, people are coming in from the Democratic Republic of Congo and Somalia: figures from 2022 speak of 66,596 refugees and 84,316 asylum seekers.
Xenophoby against these immigrants has been a rising problem, with local communities pushing back and segregating immigrants in slums and the local legislation making it difficult for them to find employment.

So here’s a list of stuff you should look into if this is a topic you’re interested in.

1.1. The District Six Museum

District Six in Cape Town was established as early as 1867, and it’s located close to the city centre in Cape Town. The area immediately became a melting pot of cultures, drawing freed slaves, immigrants, merchants, artisans, and labourers, and over the years it evolved into a vibrant community characterized by a rich cultural diversity, with people of various ethnic backgrounds coexisting. The district was known for its lively music scene, diverse culinary traditions, and a strong sense of community and identity among its residents.

And some people didn’t like that.

The apartheid government declared the area a “whites-only” zone under the infamous Group Areas Act of 1950. Starting in 1966, forced removals displaced over 60,000 residents who were relocated to barren areas far from the city, such as the area known as the Cape Flats. Their homes were bulldozed, and the vibrant community that once defined District Six was systematically erased. The apartheid government intended to redevelop the area for white citizens, but significant portions remained undeveloped for decades as some buildings, like the hospital, stood isolated amidst the destruction.

In 1994, the District Six Museum was established to commemorate the community that was lost and to serve as a space for reflection and learning. The museum holds a wealth of photographs, captured histories of people, artifacts and art pieces, offering memories and stories of the lives impacted here.

In remembering we do not want
To recreate District Six
But to work with its memory:
Of hurts inflicted and received,
Of loss, achievements and of shames.
We wish to remember
So that we can all,
Together and by ourselves,
Rebuild a city
Which belongs to all of us,
In which all of us can live,
Not as races but as people.

1.2. Bo-Kaap

Located on the slopes of Signal Hill, Bo-Kaap is one of the city’s most vibrant and culturally rich neighbourhoods and tourist guides will take you there to admire its famous colourful houses, but those colours are deeply rooted in history and reflect the struggles and triumphs of people in Cape Town, particularly the Cape Malay community.

The term “Cape Malay” in Cape Town refers to a diverse group of people who were primarily brought to South Africa as slaves and political exiles by the assholes from the Dutch East India Company. Many of these individuals came from Southeast Asia, particularly the Indonesian archipelago, as well as from parts of Africa, including Madagascar and East Africa, and what’s particular about them is the high number of people from an Islamic background, making the Cape Malay community one of the earliest Muslim communities in the country.

So what’s with the colours? Well, during the 1760s, rental houses known as huurhuisjes were built for slaves, and the authorities required them to be painted white. Exit the Dutch, enter the British. After the abolition of slavery in 1834, free slaves bought their homes, and many homeowners chose bright colours to express their conquered rights.

The architecture of Bo-Kaap reflects a blend of Cape Dutch and Georgian styles, and many of the buildings in Bo-Kaap have been preserved as historical landmarks, but distinct Islamic influences can be seen in the area’s numerous mosques and minarets. Culturally speaking, the community’s Muslim identity is also an additional reason for the many beautiful pro-Palestine murals.

Pro-Palestine activists were also manifesting in the tourist area of the Waterfront, and that’s not surprising: though the Muslim population in Cape Town is estimated to be between 5% and 10% of the city’s total inhabitants, this amounts to approximately 60,000 to 120,000 fucking people, making them a significant minority. Besides, one should be manifesting against those atrocities even if they aren’t Muslim. And here’s your friendly reminder that over 16,700 children have died due to Israeli military operations in Gaza.

The murals complement other art expressions such as the elephant made of coffee capsules.

1.3. Langa

Langa is one of the oldest townships in Cape Town, established in 1927 under the 1923 Urban Areas Act and created as a segregated settlement for black South Africans during the apartheid era. The township’s name means “sun” in Xhosa, and it is derived from Langalibalele, literally “blazing sun”. He was an amaHlubi chief known for his resistance against colonial rule, and particularly for taking a stand against the British in November 1873.

Langa was developed as part of the apartheid government’s strategy to control and segregate the black population, and it initially served as a dormitory for male labourers working in Cape Town, with families living separately because this wasn’t shitty enough. Over time, laws required black and coloured people to have a pass, restricted movement and forced many to live in hostels. Langa became a focal point for resistance against apartheid policies. On March 30, 1960, Langa was the starting point for a march against pass laws, which saw thousands of residents mobilizing for their rights.

Strictly speaking, the Langa area is architecturally developed with the low buildings you see in the picture above, and it’s home to approximately 70,000 residents, primarily belonging to the Xhosa ethnic group but including other African nationalities such as Zimbabweans, Congolese, and Somalis.

Strictly speaking.

The N2 Gateway Housing Project, initiated in the early 2000s, aimed to provide affordable housing and improve living conditions for residents in the areas surrounding Langa, and if I put it like that you’ll have no fucking idea of what I’m actually talking about, because the urban developed area in Langa, with its 70,000 residents, is a drop of water in an ocean housing 2,4 fucking million of people, which by the way is little less than half of Cape Town overall population. They live in areas fancily called “informal settlements”, such as the Joe Slovo informal settlement from the early 1990s. What’s an informal settlement?

This.

Characterized by high population density, these makeshift shacks lack basic amenities and suffer from inadequate sanitation, limited access to clean water, and poor infrastructure. They do have electricity, though, because television is a basic way to keep people submissive. Most of the structures are constructed from corrugated iron and other temporary materials, the best of which is concrete blocks, and I have no idea how fucking hot it can get in there during a South African summer. And how cold during winter, remember, ’cause the climate is temperate and Anctartica often sends its regards.

Now, let me be clear about this: if you’re a tourist, this area is NOT FOR YOU.
People aren’t curiosities and, regardless of the possible safety issues you’ll be warned against, it’s not respectful to treat them as such. I’m merely including the neighbourhood in my selection because you need to be aware of its existence and what it means today to comprehend Cape Town and South Africa. Else, you’ll come home with a very inaccurate idea based on the California-style Waterfront and North European architecture of the upper districts.

1.4. The Noordhoek Farm Village

Talking about fake stuff, if you want to enjoy some outdoors away from the sea (for some reason), the Noordhoek Farm Village dates back to the 17th century when the area was originally inhabited by the Khoikhoi people, but you’re right if you’re thinking that Noordhoek sounds too Dutch to be Khoisan. The farm village took shape as the area abandoned its agricultural activities in favour of tourism, and it’s now presented as a mix between a tourist area and a community hub. You can have a proper coffee or listen to some live music at Café Roux, eat at the Foodbarn, which combines French and South African cuisine, have a beer at the Toad in the Village, or peruse the shops for some souvenirs. Nothing captured my attention as particularly independent or local, though I might be wrong. For some good shopping, I have a different recommendation for you.

1.5. The Watershed

Located in the tourist ghetto of the V&A Waterfront right next to the Time Out Market, the Watershed is a cornucopia of local artisans and artists gathered under the impressive 825-square-meter roof of a former warehouse. It hosts over 150 stalls, representing more than 365 brands of local craftsmanship and design. I had a blast with local indie jewellery makers, some of which were kind enough to share some thoughts with me and answer my questions on life, the universe, and everything else in Cape Town.

I got a couple of interesting things, including a statement neckpiece in cerulean blue fabric stripes and aluminium pull-tabs from used soda cans. But I’ll show you another time.